4 September 2014

Space Wolfs Grey Hunters

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Preparing for Adepticon 2015, Trond decided to field a Space Wolf army.

Her are a picture of the painting scheme we have developed.

Best of luck Trond, 2 down, 38 to go in addition to the Pods, I think they look great!

Cheers,
Trond and Ørnulv

3 September 2014

Ultramarines Librarian

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Final preparation for Adepticon 2015!

I will once again bring my Ultramarines. But I decided to kit out my Warlord different from my current build.

A little inspired by “White Dwarf” – Warhammer Visions – Kit Bash Sections, I decided to se if I could build / convert a model that would represent my proud Librarian in a fashionable way. Hence, it was time to open the bit box.

The “Black Reach Captain” was the basis for my model; Altered backpack with Ultramarines symbol, custom made Combi Melta, Auspex, extra Purity seals and Servo Sculls.
I decided to use Dark Angels “scripts” to represent the "essence of the Librarian", lots of written material, also adding some chains and gems.

And this is how my new Librarian looks like. Behold – “Librarian FalconWolf” - ready to lead the Ultramarines into battle!



Cheers,
Ørnulv

27 August 2014

Ultramarines Drop Pod

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Hi there! Finally back from my summer holiday. The weather was so good I did not manage to get any hobby stuff done, so I was eager to get on with my hobby projects again.

Several of the TSB members are currently working on Space Marine army’s. I will let them post articles covering their own achievements, but have decided to make a small tutorial on how I paint my Drop Pods, hoping some can benefit from my mediocre skills. When it comes to ordinary colours I will give reference refer to the “old GW colours names”, as the conversion tables can guide you on what to use, whatever paint you choose (I use Vallejo).

First out I build the Pod, and yes, I finish the whole model. I then I use GW Chaos Black Spray to prime it, spraying inside first, closing the doors, spraying outside and the top. Bottom and roof inside is done in a separate spray session.

After this I mask of the engines, side panel metal plates and bottom of the doors and bottom retro thrust area. With the doors closed, I then use Army Painter Ultramarines Blue primer on the model.

Tipp: Make sure to shake the can well before using Army Painters spray primers. Also move the can quick back and forth 15 – 20 cm from the model.

After removing the masking tape I dry brush the side of all the panels with a mix of Ultramarines Blue and Ice Blue mixed 1:2. Then I go over the model with Chaos Black mixed with water 2:1, tidying up all the eras that have gotten blue spray on them by mistake.

I then dry brush GW Tin Bits and Scorched Brown mixed 1:1 on the engines, bottom retro thrust area and metal side panels. Scorched Brown is dry brushed around vents, in all the corners and on selected eras around the doors (veer and tear, chip markings etc.).

I dry brush the interior, metal plates on the side panels and the inside of the doors with Chainmail. A mix of Bolt gun Metal and Chainmail 1:1 is applied in thin uneven “spots” on top of the brown areas, concentrating on the edges of the doors and all the corners (brown patches – to represent chipping, tear and wear).

I mask the side of the doors, and apply Sunburst Yellow in thin layers 4 times (thinned 1:1). I remove the masking tape. I fill in the boltholes on the side of the doors and apply some brown patches. Then I apply the silver mix on the brown patches.

I wash the interior using Badab Black (Nurn Oil) thinned in water 1:1, and paint the screens and buttons on the panels using Snot Green, Sunburst Yellow and Blood Red (all diluted 1:1). All the other metal areas (not the brown patches) are washed with a mix of Brown Ink and Badab Black thinned with water (1:1:2).

The eagles are painted Codex Grey, and highlighted with Skull White, both diluted 1:1. I also paint some scripts on the side panels.

The floor inside the model and inside of the doors is dry brushed using Sand Yellow, the dry brushed using Bleached Bone. The side of the doors, the floor inside and the inside of the doors are washed with Brown Wash thinned 1:2.

I paint Gloss Varnish where the transfers are placed, and cower the decals with Gloss warmish when dry.

Tipp: Using Gloss warmish on decals is mandatory for later stages using my technique.

I use a hobby knife carving/drilling some bullet holes. I don’t do this on the doors since the pods arrive so fast I recon they will take hits once they are on the ground (and doors ejected). The holes are painted in the Tin Bitz/Scorched Brown mix. When dry, I paint the holes with Chainmail diluted 1:1.

I then cover both the inside and outside of the model with GW Satin Varnish spray (thin cote).

Tipp: Using satin warmish is decals mandatory for later stages using my technique.

At this stage the model looks like the one to the left in this picture. But I want to take it one step further so that it looks like the model to the right when finished.

To dull down the blue colour, shade the metal and holes, I use AK Interactive (MIG) Enamel Wash Brown Blue (for panzer grey vehicles). The Enamel Wash comes in various colours, but I find this best on blue and grey surfaces. I use a Tamiya mixing pot, and add Enamel Wash and Turpentine rectified approx. 1:10. Place the lid and shake well.

The Enamel Wash is painted on all the blue surfaces (also over decals and the eagle), and on the engine and retro engine sections as well as the metal side panels (Tin Bitz/Scorched Brown areas). Important: After applying, wait 5 minutes, dip a brush in Turpentine and lean the decals. You can use the brush over the decals 2 max 3 times before the Gloss Varnish succumbs to the turpentine!

Tipp: Do this step using a Vapour Mask and in a ventilated area. Clean the brush in Turpentine thinner, and wash the brush in warm water with some kitchen soap, and then using cold water. Also make large pots of the mix ensuring the same mix are used on the models. Finally, every now and then, when painting, shake the bottle – important – as the paint pigment will start to fall to the bottom of the jar within 10 – 15 minutes. Use a large Wash brush.

After 24 hours I then paint the whole of the model with satin Varnish thinned 2:1. I highly recommend using Vallejo Satin Varnish.

When dry the model look like this.


Happy painting everyone, hope this can help someone out thereJ

Cheers,
Ørnulv

31 July 2014

All is quiet on the northern front?

6 kommentarer
The unbuilt miniatures in their boxes stops their calls for clippers and glue.
The unpainted hordes on the shelves quits their cries for primer and paint.

Silence fall over the tabletops.
No cries of 'Havoc' or 'Let slip the Dogs of War'.


- + - + -

While it may appear like nothing is going on in the TSB bunker complex, this is not entirely true. I do have a number of projects under way, and there are rumours of ‘Works in Progress’ elsewhere too.

I’m painting a dozen Chaos Terminators and a third squad of Obliterators for my Word Bearers army. A total of fifteen 2+/5++ Sv models, to add to the fifteen or so I already have. The idea is to actually make use of all the unbuilt CSM models I have accumulated. Perhaps there’s even room for future games with an Unbound Word Bearers ‘Anointed’ army.

To familiarize myself with the hows and whys of using an airbrush, I dug out some old Mordheim ruins. These were built using 1.5mm thick plain card instead of the printed sheets supplied with the box, but we stopped playing the game before I got around to actually painting them.

Before even considering what colours to use, I figured I had to base the ruins. I grabbed a suitable-sized piece of mdf, a permanent marker and the electric jig saw. I glued the ruins to their new bases, added a little sand and left them to dry for a few days, when that week's schedule allowed me to fire up the compressor.

Of all the Loyalist Space Marines Chapters out there, the one I’ve always thought I might one day to paint has always been the Crimson Fists. Already on the flight back from Adepticon this spring, we talked about what we’d do for next year’s Team Tournament. (Yes, we’re going. Teras is taking care of it.) It was quickly decided that we’d each paint up a thousand points of a different Chapter of Marines. My choice was made in a matter of seconds: A strike force led by Pedro Cantor. Ørn already have his Ultramarines, so he’ll be making bases matching his own for the rest of us. Trond and Inger Helene have their own projects under way too, but I’ll leave any updates on those to themselves. For my own part, I’m still putting the models together and plan to paint them all together, conveyor belt style.

Could be there’s a few too many projects going on at once here, actually. If only I could get this summer vacation thing over and done with, perhaps I should focus on finishing off at least a couple of them before I start anything new…

Planned/upcoming projects include…

…the Traitor Guard armour recycling projects.
…the Basilica Veteris large ruined cathedral project.

Until next time...


JørnN

6 June 2014

Tyranid Harridan, Harpy and Hive Crone

2 kommentarer

Harpy and Hive Crone

I bought the new Harpy/Hive Crone set the day the new NIDS Codex was realized for sale. Other hobby projects, and all the negativity towards the new NIDS Codex, reduced my motivation to ”finish” these models. Unfair really, as I think that they are cool looking models.

I bought two models. I decided to magnetise the models so that I could field them either as a Harpy ore Hive Crone. The heads and weapons are obviously different, so I used magnets to represent the two variants. The body and tail however had to be decided upon; I chose the variants that I thought represented the coolest versions (my minds image).

I also wanted to theme the bases to the rest of my (extensive) NIDS army, so I decided not to use the standard ”flyer base” (making sure the height was correct). This is how they turned out:
Harpy configuration with Heavy Barbed Strangler Cannon and Heavy Venom Cannon (both twin linked) and spore mines

Hive Crone configuration

Harridan

I bought this model back in April 2013. When building the new NIDS “flyers” it was about time to finish this model. A massive construct. I decided to make a base/flyer stand that themed with the rest of my army, so I used the sturdiest parts from the GW building range I could think of, and used "heavy industrial magnets" as well as a centre metal spike to keep the model "steady":
The mighty Harridan

NIDS flying circus

What next? Zone Mortalis gaming table. Progress can be seen on: http://theeagleandwolf.blogspot.no/
from September 2014.


Cheers,
Ørnulv