26 October 2014

Hive Fleet Behemoth – Hive Tyrant and Tyranid Warriors update

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Greetings! I have been caught up with work and miscellaneous other projects, so I have been quite unproductive hobby vice lately. Feeling my motivation is about to return, I started working on a small project, refitting a unit of Warriors and a Winged Hive Tyrant with Devourers.

Funny how “small projects” turn out to be something quite different; I had to tear of the wings in order to fit new arms, this being the old metal model with lots of pinning, green stuff etc. – well, I finally finished the monstrosity.

Since this summer I have played my Tyranid army. Although they are not as competitive as they where in 5th edition, I still have fun playing them, much more then when I read the new Codex when it first came out, I must admit I got caught up in all the rant…

Anyway, focusing on “fun gaming”, I played a great game against a veteran Necron player a couple of weeks ago. I presented two armies my opponent could choose from, and I was really happy when he choose to go against a horde swarm.
The opposing forces

Hive Fleet Behemoth advances on the Necron line

First contact

Metal and Chitin almost annihilated each other

This was a particularly bloody battle. Almost no models left on either side. Very fun. When we left the gaming table we thought the Necrons had won, but during a drink after the game we had forgotten First Blood and Linebraker, securing a Tyranid victory by one small point. Honestly, it could have gone either way, a game to remember!


14 October 2014

Word Bearers Obliterators ...again! (Architecture of Aggression XXXVI)

3 kommentarer
Must... Obliterate...

Has it really been four years since I completed the previous batch of Obliterators? Back then, we still wrote in Norwegian, so an auto-translated version might be (slightly!) more accessible to our international readers...

(Apologies for the Omnissiah's repeated insults to both languages.)

This latest group of inductees into the Obliterator Cult brings the total number up to nine. That means I can max out the available Heavy Support slots in a Combined Arms Detachment with Obliterators. I'm sure everyone else at TSB is pretty exited about that prospect! :D

Until next time...


4 September 2014

Space Wolfs Grey Hunters

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Preparing for Adepticon 2015, Trond decided to field a Space Wolf army.

Her are a picture of the painting scheme we have developed.

Best of luck Trond, 2 down, 38 to go in addition to the Pods, I think they look great!

Trond and Ørnulv

3 September 2014

Ultramarines Librarian

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Final preparation for Adepticon 2015!

I will once again bring my Ultramarines. But I decided to kit out my Warlord different from my current build.

A little inspired by “White Dwarf” – Warhammer Visions – Kit Bash Sections, I decided to se if I could build / convert a model that would represent my proud Librarian in a fashionable way. Hence, it was time to open the bit box.

The “Black Reach Captain” was the basis for my model; Altered backpack with Ultramarines symbol, custom made Combi Melta, Auspex, extra Purity seals and Servo Sculls.
I decided to use Dark Angels “scripts” to represent the "essence of the Librarian", lots of written material, also adding some chains and gems.

And this is how my new Librarian looks like. Behold – “Librarian FalconWolf” - ready to lead the Ultramarines into battle!


27 August 2014

Ultramarines Drop Pod

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Hi there! Finally back from my summer holiday. The weather was so good I did not manage to get any hobby stuff done, so I was eager to get on with my hobby projects again.

Several of the TSB members are currently working on Space Marine army’s. I will let them post articles covering their own achievements, but have decided to make a small tutorial on how I paint my Drop Pods, hoping some can benefit from my mediocre skills. When it comes to ordinary colours I will give reference refer to the “old GW colours names”, as the conversion tables can guide you on what to use, whatever paint you choose (I use Vallejo).

First out I build the Pod, and yes, I finish the whole model. I then I use GW Chaos Black Spray to prime it, spraying inside first, closing the doors, spraying outside and the top. Bottom and roof inside is done in a separate spray session.

After this I mask of the engines, side panel metal plates and bottom of the doors and bottom retro thrust area. With the doors closed, I then use Army Painter Ultramarines Blue primer on the model.

Tipp: Make sure to shake the can well before using Army Painters spray primers. Also move the can quick back and forth 15 – 20 cm from the model.

After removing the masking tape I dry brush the side of all the panels with a mix of Ultramarines Blue and Ice Blue mixed 1:2. Then I go over the model with Chaos Black mixed with water 2:1, tidying up all the eras that have gotten blue spray on them by mistake.

I then dry brush GW Tin Bits and Scorched Brown mixed 1:1 on the engines, bottom retro thrust area and metal side panels. Scorched Brown is dry brushed around vents, in all the corners and on selected eras around the doors (veer and tear, chip markings etc.).

I dry brush the interior, metal plates on the side panels and the inside of the doors with Chainmail. A mix of Bolt gun Metal and Chainmail 1:1 is applied in thin uneven “spots” on top of the brown areas, concentrating on the edges of the doors and all the corners (brown patches – to represent chipping, tear and wear).

I mask the side of the doors, and apply Sunburst Yellow in thin layers 4 times (thinned 1:1). I remove the masking tape. I fill in the boltholes on the side of the doors and apply some brown patches. Then I apply the silver mix on the brown patches.

I wash the interior using Badab Black (Nurn Oil) thinned in water 1:1, and paint the screens and buttons on the panels using Snot Green, Sunburst Yellow and Blood Red (all diluted 1:1). All the other metal areas (not the brown patches) are washed with a mix of Brown Ink and Badab Black thinned with water (1:1:2).

The eagles are painted Codex Grey, and highlighted with Skull White, both diluted 1:1. I also paint some scripts on the side panels.

The floor inside the model and inside of the doors is dry brushed using Sand Yellow, the dry brushed using Bleached Bone. The side of the doors, the floor inside and the inside of the doors are washed with Brown Wash thinned 1:2.

I paint Gloss Varnish where the transfers are placed, and cower the decals with Gloss warmish when dry.

Tipp: Using Gloss warmish on decals is mandatory for later stages using my technique.

I use a hobby knife carving/drilling some bullet holes. I don’t do this on the doors since the pods arrive so fast I recon they will take hits once they are on the ground (and doors ejected). The holes are painted in the Tin Bitz/Scorched Brown mix. When dry, I paint the holes with Chainmail diluted 1:1.

I then cover both the inside and outside of the model with GW Satin Varnish spray (thin cote).

Tipp: Using satin warmish is decals mandatory for later stages using my technique.

At this stage the model looks like the one to the left in this picture. But I want to take it one step further so that it looks like the model to the right when finished.

To dull down the blue colour, shade the metal and holes, I use AK Interactive (MIG) Enamel Wash Brown Blue (for panzer grey vehicles). The Enamel Wash comes in various colours, but I find this best on blue and grey surfaces. I use a Tamiya mixing pot, and add Enamel Wash and Turpentine rectified approx. 1:10. Place the lid and shake well.

The Enamel Wash is painted on all the blue surfaces (also over decals and the eagle), and on the engine and retro engine sections as well as the metal side panels (Tin Bitz/Scorched Brown areas). Important: After applying, wait 5 minutes, dip a brush in Turpentine and lean the decals. You can use the brush over the decals 2 max 3 times before the Gloss Varnish succumbs to the turpentine!

Tipp: Do this step using a Vapour Mask and in a ventilated area. Clean the brush in Turpentine thinner, and wash the brush in warm water with some kitchen soap, and then using cold water. Also make large pots of the mix ensuring the same mix are used on the models. Finally, every now and then, when painting, shake the bottle – important – as the paint pigment will start to fall to the bottom of the jar within 10 – 15 minutes. Use a large Wash brush.

After 24 hours I then paint the whole of the model with satin Varnish thinned 2:1. I highly recommend using Vallejo Satin Varnish.

When dry the model look like this.

Happy painting everyone, hope this can help someone out thereJ