27 August 2014

Ultramarines Drop Pod


Hi there! Finally back from my summer holiday. The weather was so good I did not manage to get any hobby stuff done, so I was eager to get on with my hobby projects again.

Several of the TSB members are currently working on Space Marine army’s. I will let them post articles covering their own achievements, but have decided to make a small tutorial on how I paint my Drop Pods, hoping some can benefit from my mediocre skills. When it comes to ordinary colours I will give reference refer to the “old GW colours names”, as the conversion tables can guide you on what to use, whatever paint you choose (I use Vallejo).

First out I build the Pod, and yes, I finish the whole model. I then I use GW Chaos Black Spray to prime it, spraying inside first, closing the doors, spraying outside and the top. Bottom and roof inside is done in a separate spray session.

After this I mask of the engines, side panel metal plates and bottom of the doors and bottom retro thrust area. With the doors closed, I then use Army Painter Ultramarines Blue primer on the model.

Tipp: Make sure to shake the can well before using Army Painters spray primers. Also move the can quick back and forth 15 – 20 cm from the model.

After removing the masking tape I dry brush the side of all the panels with a mix of Ultramarines Blue and Ice Blue mixed 1:2. Then I go over the model with Chaos Black mixed with water 2:1, tidying up all the eras that have gotten blue spray on them by mistake.

I then dry brush GW Tin Bits and Scorched Brown mixed 1:1 on the engines, bottom retro thrust area and metal side panels. Scorched Brown is dry brushed around vents, in all the corners and on selected eras around the doors (veer and tear, chip markings etc.).

I dry brush the interior, metal plates on the side panels and the inside of the doors with Chainmail. A mix of Bolt gun Metal and Chainmail 1:1 is applied in thin uneven “spots” on top of the brown areas, concentrating on the edges of the doors and all the corners (brown patches – to represent chipping, tear and wear).

I mask the side of the doors, and apply Sunburst Yellow in thin layers 4 times (thinned 1:1). I remove the masking tape. I fill in the boltholes on the side of the doors and apply some brown patches. Then I apply the silver mix on the brown patches.

I wash the interior using Badab Black (Nurn Oil) thinned in water 1:1, and paint the screens and buttons on the panels using Snot Green, Sunburst Yellow and Blood Red (all diluted 1:1). All the other metal areas (not the brown patches) are washed with a mix of Brown Ink and Badab Black thinned with water (1:1:2).

The eagles are painted Codex Grey, and highlighted with Skull White, both diluted 1:1. I also paint some scripts on the side panels.

The floor inside the model and inside of the doors is dry brushed using Sand Yellow, the dry brushed using Bleached Bone. The side of the doors, the floor inside and the inside of the doors are washed with Brown Wash thinned 1:2.

I paint Gloss Varnish where the transfers are placed, and cower the decals with Gloss warmish when dry.

Tipp: Using Gloss warmish on decals is mandatory for later stages using my technique.

I use a hobby knife carving/drilling some bullet holes. I don’t do this on the doors since the pods arrive so fast I recon they will take hits once they are on the ground (and doors ejected). The holes are painted in the Tin Bitz/Scorched Brown mix. When dry, I paint the holes with Chainmail diluted 1:1.

I then cover both the inside and outside of the model with GW Satin Varnish spray (thin cote).

Tipp: Using satin warmish is decals mandatory for later stages using my technique.

At this stage the model looks like the one to the left in this picture. But I want to take it one step further so that it looks like the model to the right when finished.

To dull down the blue colour, shade the metal and holes, I use AK Interactive (MIG) Enamel Wash Brown Blue (for panzer grey vehicles). The Enamel Wash comes in various colours, but I find this best on blue and grey surfaces. I use a Tamiya mixing pot, and add Enamel Wash and Turpentine rectified approx. 1:10. Place the lid and shake well.

The Enamel Wash is painted on all the blue surfaces (also over decals and the eagle), and on the engine and retro engine sections as well as the metal side panels (Tin Bitz/Scorched Brown areas). Important: After applying, wait 5 minutes, dip a brush in Turpentine and lean the decals. You can use the brush over the decals 2 max 3 times before the Gloss Varnish succumbs to the turpentine!

Tipp: Do this step using a Vapour Mask and in a ventilated area. Clean the brush in Turpentine thinner, and wash the brush in warm water with some kitchen soap, and then using cold water. Also make large pots of the mix ensuring the same mix are used on the models. Finally, every now and then, when painting, shake the bottle – important – as the paint pigment will start to fall to the bottom of the jar within 10 – 15 minutes. Use a large Wash brush.

After 24 hours I then paint the whole of the model with satin Varnish thinned 2:1. I highly recommend using Vallejo Satin Varnish.

When dry the model look like this.


Happy painting everyone, hope this can help someone out thereJ

Cheers,
Ørnulv

4 comments:

  1. This is a fantastic read, super inspiring and a perfect addition and maybe a new start to our beloved blog! Extremely detailed and also highly interesting tutorial. Very interesting to see how you choose to go along to achieve those brilliantly looking models! Hope to see more of this!
    Cheers!

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  2. I've got a feeling I'll be referencing this article a lot, once I get around to painting my own Drop Pods...
    Nice paint-job, and nice tutorial!

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  3. Very usefull tutorial! I also hope to get some irl help from Mr Drop Pod himself;)

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  4. Glad you liked it, and I hope someone benefits from the detailed description.

    Inger Helene, of course I will help you, say when:)

    ReplyDelete

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